Our round-up of all the trends and most iconic designers and Milan Fashion Week including romantic lace at Dolce and Gabbana and fetish punk at Versace
Milan Fashion Week is where we get to the more established and iconic designers, the collections become more dramatic and emerging trends get their Milan Fashion Week stamp of approval. Italy loves fur, so this was a trend that was evident on pretty much every catwalk show. The shows went from 50s glamour at Prada to vampy sexy at Gucci and in between there was fetish punk and classic 40s.
With a very dark and dramatic colour palatte Gucci used jewel tones to lift the mood, the deep wine is here to stay and a definite trend along with python green and sapphire blue. Dogtooth and heavy fabrics in suiting, python black items, satin and feather like fur were all key to this very sexy collection.
Originally known for ‘fun fur’ Fendi went back to it’s heritage, there was fur on everything including accessories such as bags, belts, bangles and even sunglasses, not forgetting the fur head-pieces on all the models. Furs were in colour and stripes, mainly shades of brown and navy which are signature colours for Fendi. With a monochrome feel from this season Marni too was full of fur accessories mainly scarves in bright colours teamed with riding boots and a woodland scene backdrop. At the Marni collection we saw more boxy shapes compared to the more sexier sillhouettes at Gucci and Prada.
As well as fur Prada brought us coloured leather in jade, red and rustic brown. There were no trousers at the Prada show but suits were still huge, only with skirts and a lot of bare shoulders (yes even in Winter).
Back to the 1940s for DSquared², Milan seems to be set in this decade for the next season. Tailoring was key in this show, with skirt suits and a lot more trousers with double-breasted jackets and big jewels. Obviously no Milan show is complete without fur trimmings and so far it seems a jewel toned colour palette, DSquared² did however add a 40s khaki tone to the mix.
The jewel toned colour palette of Just Cavailli seen in furs was lifted by Bhutanese prints on tunics, coats and other classic Cavalli pieces. This show brought in more sunset colours such as oranges and reds which seemed to be the turning point at Milan Fashion Week. All of a sudden we were back in monochrome with red or looking at black mixed with sloppy pastels.
Contrary to the other colour palettes we have seen in Milan so far; Moschino was simply navy and red comprising of punk tartan and then signature monochrome classic, black and white which surprisingly after this season still looks fresh and new. The colours and tartan print makes you think 80s or early 90s but many of the silhouettes and military influences still keeps us in the 40s era.
At Dolce and Gabbana we saw a lot more red, religion and romantic print. Of course there was lace and embellishment but wait…no fur! Instead, in contrast to the romantic lace and prints there was suiting in heavy masculine fabrics and very feminine shapes.
Monochrome with red and navy was trending at Roberto Cavalli too but with the deep wine shade added back into the mix along with fur and intricate floral print. With such intricate prints and embellishment the Roberto Cavalli show had so much texture to make a strong collection.
Fetish, punk, vinyl and spikes are words that come to mind when thinking of the over the top Versace show. The show definitely had the glam and sex appeal of Versace and with nails, collars, tartan and bolts it has the spikey edge of punk. ‘Vunk’! as the designer herself liked to call it.
From the pop yellow at Versace we see a more sophisticated and muted mustard tone at Max Mara, the collection as a whole was more grown and sophisticated which is classic Max Mara. There has been a lot more interest in the brand as it is a favourite for Royal Kate Middleton. With emphasis on outerwear and layering, the collection was home to some great coating pieces, of course the classic camel coat which is signature for Max Mara as well as cashmere knits and cable knit sweaters.
Introducing the ice cream pastels shades for next season, the hemline at the Emilio Pucci collection went way up to compliment the almost most thigh high over the knee boots. There was monochrome print on pastel shades and fur looked irresistible in these smokey sky blue and blush tones. Taking us back to the more 70s feel we got in New York with the colour palette and big fringes.
Also feeling the smokey blues and blush pinks was the Emporio Armani show, a trend for skirts styled with jumpers and suiting with shorts was set here. A trend we saw at New York Fashion Week and in London was wearing tunics and dresses over trousers and this is a clear trend in this show along with the exposed shoulder we saw a lot of at Prada.
Subdued spots at Missoni styled with blanket knits draped over classic Missoni pieces revealing the shoulder and other body parts. The heavier fabrics included metallic jacquards and leathers that looked almost fluid like. The monochrome palette was underpinned by bright blue and acid lime accents.
Just when we think we finally have some clear cut emerging trends; heavy masculine fabrics, jewel tones, fur, albeit a complete mix across the decades from 80s punk, classic 40s and relaxed 70s. Bluemarine comes along and adds candy colours and a un punked 80s along with floral prints on stripes. This collection may not be here to set the trends for the next season but to simply suggest comfort with fluffy coats and fur dresses in nude tones. An evident trend however, is the herringbone suiting and implying the 80s woman power dressing.
Off to Paris for some definite answers ♥